jn82’s Epic Adventure

Day 53 [23 Mar 09] – Naples

Posted in Naples by jn82 on March 24, 2009

Today was a pretty chill day, as we had no where in particular to see. Had to check out of the hostel by 10.30am, and catch the train from Naples to Rome only at 5.24pm, so we decided to walk around a bit of Naples’ old city and kill some time. The streets in the old city are all single laned, and there is constantly very heavy traffic, mostly by insane mopeds zig-zagging through cars and pedestrians. The first floor buildings here are shops selling all sorts of stuff from well known brands such as Zara and Foot Locker to small ones selling 1,001 laundry detergent items. Nothing really interesting to see here. On the second floor onwards and in the smaller steets behind, you can see the Naples signature laundry hanging out to dry of most apartment windows.

Typical Naples back street.

We really did not feel like doing much, so just headed down to the coast for a view of Mt. Vesuvius (again), as well as go into an old castle (Castel dell’Ovo) which was right on the coast. The view of the city from the castle was pretty good, and that was about all you could do from the castle because it was totally empty on the inside.

Mr. Vesuvius, from the coast of Napoli city.

View of the city from Castel dell’Ovo.

The smaller boats docked below the castle.

We had lunch at this little traditional place which the hostel recommended, La Taverna Da Buongustaio. The food here was excellent and very well priced for what you get, as we found out having dined here the first night we were in the city. It is a no frills kind of place with no fancy table settings, decorations or waiters in uniforms. The restaurant is operated by four men, one who takes the orders and three who work in the kitchen. All smoke openly and happily in the kitchen. They have quite a few newspaper clippings on the wall, so I guess this is a place the locals know very well about. Today, I had Spaghetti Frutti di Mare for my first dish, and grilled sword fish for the second, for a very reasonable 14 €. Pretty interesting concept they have in Italy for meals, where instead of the usual entree and main, the first dish is usually a carbohydrate loaded pasta dish, and the second is some sort of meat or seafood. Pizza can come in as either a first or second dish I think.

Spagietti Frutti di Mare, very generous helping of clams and mussels.

Grilled sword fish, less exciting.

How authentic is this place, seriously!

In the evening, we got on the Intercity Plus train from Naples to Rome from 5.24pm – 7.30pm, following which caught the Luna night train from Rome to Geneva. In the Luna night train, we took the entry level sleeper option of a four-to-a-cabin couchette, as it cost us only 35€ with the train pass, as opposed to 65€ for a twin sleeper. On the train from Naples to Rome we were actually regretting this money saving decision as all the guide books and travel websites mentioned the rates of theft on Italian night trains is particularly high, but in the end were lucky enough to share the couchette with only one other man, the most un-italian biology researcher for the research division of the Italian Ministry of Health. I forgot to take a picture of the couchette, but it looks very similar to the night train cabin we took from Lisbon to Madrid, only difference is that there was no sink in the cabin.

Swiss sleeper carriage on EuroNight Luna 314 from Roma Termini to Geneva.

Post continues tomorrow when we wake up in Geneva!

Today’s pictures here.

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